2009 Route Map (Marmaris to Orhaniye to Finike and back to Marmaris)
Map showing all the main centres visited during our 2009 cruise
The blue square highlights our Leg 4 area
We left Fethiye early morning to sail the 40 miles to Kalkan the next bay to our south and east. This stretch of coast has a bad reputation for high gusts of wind during a meltemi, this is due to the mountainous coast line called the Seven Capes. Then when you are safely past this you find a seven mile long sandy beach where the water is only about 10 meters deep and this causes a short steep sea when there is any swell running. The Pilot Book suggests you sail at least three miles offshore to miss the worst of these conditions. We arrived safely after a fairly good sail and anchored in a bay just west of Kalkan. Kalkan has a small expensive marina which is difficult to enter with a boat of our size, so we preferred to anchor in the bay and use the dinghy to get ashore. The village of Kalkan turned out to be a lovely place, we would have preferred to stay longer but our visas were running out and it was therefore necessary for us to leave the country (visas only last 90 days). This is one of the drawbacks of staying in Turkey you can only get a 90 day visa which necessitates leaving the country and then returning to get another 90 day visa. We would achieve this at our next port of call, Kas.
Anchored in the bay near Kas
note the line tying us back to the shore, this is med style anchoring
Kas is only a hop, skip and a jump down the coast (15 miles), here again we chose not to go into the harbour which is crammed full of ferry boats and gulets but anchor in a near by bay (Bayindir Limani). We were in excellent company with the classic 'J' Class yacht Valsheda anchored on the opposite side of the bay.
This is the third time we have met up with this beautiful yacht, once at Tobermory (Scotland), then in the Caribbean and now here in Turkey and each time she is a sight to behold.
Valsheda leaving the anchorage
can you pick out the two men on deck, one is at the foot of the mast?
The town of Kas is two miles away from the anchorage and we used our dinghy to commute back and forth.
This was fine as long as it was a nice calm day, on more than one occasion it was calm when we went in and the wind then increased for the return journey. Anne often complained of a wet bum!
Looking back to Kas from the anchorage
As I mentioned earlier our current visa was due to expire and we would have to leave the country then return to obtain a new one. Well Kas is one of the best places for doing just that! Four miles off the Turkish mainland is the Island and town of Kastellorizon (Greek) and just by chance ferry boats make the trip every day during the summer. So we jump on one of these ferry boats and book out of Turkey. Now this is like a bus-mans holiday' for us taking a ferry to another island but the ferry company do all the paperwork booking you out and back in again, at a price of course.
Entering the Greek Harbour of Kastellorizon The water front at Kastellorizon
We only spent a couple of hours on the island which was just as well as all the prices were extremely high, what we call in our cruising life 'Tourist Prices'. To give you an example, they were charging 4€ an hour in the Internet Cafe.
It is common to find 'Tourist Prices' in most tourist centres and we usually look to where the locals shop and eat following their example but this was such a small place there was just nowhere else to go.
However it was a pleasant day out and it was nice to have someone else do the driving.
The ferry returning to Kas (on the bow in the distance)
We landed back at Kas and were issued our new visas, great we're okay for another 90 days.
Lovely scenery, pity about the monument
This monument is at the land end of Kas harbour, now I'm not sure what it depicts as the inscription is in Turkish but I'm sure the guy who built it had just returned from Kastellorizon with a boat load of duty free booze and drunk it just before he started building.
Now there was another important event taking place it Kas around this time, the skipper of Alba Voyager was about to have a landmark birthday.
Alba Voyager at our Birthday Restaurant
We decided to move the boat onto one of the restaurant jetties so we could have a nice dinner and wouldn't have to use the dinghy. I think the crew were worried that the skipper might fall in the water if the celebrations went on too long. (the crew needn't have worried)
I think a few words here would be appropriate. For many years, more than I would like to remember I have worked hard and at the end of each week/month when the remuneration was due there was a large slice missing, it went under the name of : Nat Ins Contributions, Graduated Pension, Serps etc. Well now the ball is on the other foot and instead of me paying them, they're paying me and with any luck I'll live to be 110 years old. So the toast for the evening was 'Revenge'.
Birthday Celebrations Skipper and Crew The toast 'Revenge'
Celebrations over and a couple of days 'R &R' then it was time to do a little site seeing. The hills surrounding Kas are peppered with Lycian Tombs and it just so happened there were a few near enough to reach on a morning walk before the day became to hot.
Some are accessible after a short climb up the hill, others you need to be a bit of a rock climber although there are some fixed ropes to help you on the climb.
Entrance to one of the Tombs
(note the fixed rope to assist you up to the next level)
All the tombs we visited had obviously been raided many years ago and anything of value removed, today they lie empty and open for you to go inside.
The view of the inside of one of the tombs
Anne decided she didn't fancy the look of the fixed rope and decided she would remain at this level so she could report to the authorities what had happened if the skipper didn't make it! It's always a great relief to know that the crew are always thinking about you.
Anyway on arriving at the top I found a number of sarcophagus, one or two had there heavy stone lids still in place while others had obviously been robed and were lying open.
Sarcophagus at the top with Kas in the background
The views from the top were quite stunning and I could have lingered here for some time, but the crew were waiting down below and I felt it my duty to return as quickly as possible to allay any fears they might have as to my safety. As it turned out I needn't have bothered.
Looking down on the bay from the top with Alba Voyager at the restaurant jetty. Note the light green patches in the water, ideal for swimming.
View from the top
After a couple of weeks it was time to move south and east again further along the coast. Our next stop would be Kekova Roads.