2009 Route Map (Marmaris to Orhaniye to Finike and back to Marmaris)
Map showing all the main centres visited during our 2009 cruise
The blue square highlights our Leg 3 area
The Gocek Fethiye bay or to give it it's proper Turkish name of Skopea Limani is a large bay measuring 12 miles across and about 10 miles deep. It has numerous anchorages and restaurant jetties, also about half a dozen small marinas catering for thousands of yachts which visit the area every year. We had a very relaxing time here visiting only a few of the many anchorages available while meeting up with old friends from our winter in Yacht Marine. We also bought new batteries for our domestic bank and were surprised when we were told they were only made to order and it would take 30 working days, but more about that later.
click on map to go to the interactive version
We had a good sail from Ekincik without having to resort to the engine until we rounded the corner and into the bay proper. Our first stop was planned for Kapi Creek only a few miles into the bay. Kapi Creek is as it's name suggests a creek, very small and with a steep sided entrance
Once through the entrance it opens out into a small bay with two restaurants on the shore both of which have rather rickety jetties to tie too. There is no room to anchor. The setting is very picturesque, it is also very busy and if you don't arrive by mid afternoon you'll be lucky to get on to one of the jetties. There is no charge for using the jetty but you are expected to eat in the restaurant which we did that evening.
Restaurant on the Beach View from the restaurant looking out through the entrance
Kapi Creek was lovely but there wasn't much to do except people watch. Now some of that was very entertaining, the Gocek Fethiye area is a main centre for charter yachts and with Kapi Creek being tight to maneuver in, well the mess some boats got into brought many a smile to the on lookers faces.
Our next port of call was to be Boynuz Buku where we would meet up with Pam and Ted on Rahda, friends from our winter in Yacht Marine.
Looking out through the entrance of Boynuz Buku
Boynuz Buku is a long fjord like bay with pine covered slopes reaching down to the waters edge. There is one restaurant with the usual rickety jetty at the far end but apart from that there is no other habitation. This is good because the charter yachts normally look for places they can step ashore rather than anchor and have to use their dinghies, so fewer charter yachts use this bay. The bay is used by local gulets although they are generally under charter and only stay one night. We stayed here over a week generally relaxing and socialising.
A local charter Gulet Skipper cooling off
Boynuz Buku had a couple of surprises for us, every day, usually two or three times a day we would hear the cry 'Ice Cream, Ice Cream' and there would appear a small boat selling Ice Creams. We were to find this a daily occurrence in all the bays we visited in the area. Considering the temperature most afternoons was in the 90's we suspect he did a brisk trade.
Surprise number two was the Garbage Collection Boat'. Now it is generally accepted that when you go ashore you take your rubbish with you and find a suitable place to dispose of it. In the Gocek area each bay has a collection point where there are bins for you to dispose of your rubbish, then two or three times a week these are emptied by the Garbage boat. A great system I don't know why more areas have not adopted a similar approach.
You hear the cry 'Ice Cream, Ice Cream' Refuge collection marine style
The main town of Gocek is about three miles from Boynuz Buku and we would take one of our boats (acting as a ferry for the others) up to the anchorage just outside the marina and from there go ashore and do our shopping. One of the great features of all Turkish towns and villages is their market day where the fruit and veg and local produce like cheese and bread are to die for. Gocek's Market Day is held on a Sunday, so it was common place to set off Sunday morning anchor off the marina, shop at the market then have lunch in one of the local restaurants before setting off back to Boynuz Buku for a well earned siesta. It's a hard life all this cruising!
It was hard leaving Boynuz Buku but if we were to see some of the other sites in the area we would have to move. And so it was that we travelled all of five miles round to Tomb Bay and anchored there in the bay.
Following a Gulet into Tomb Bay Alba Voyager anchored in Tomb Bay
Tomb Bay as you can imagine is called after and well known for it's Lycian Tombs. These house the remains of the inhabitants of Crya an ancient provincial town sited on the summit of the cliffs. You can walk up to the tombs, the inhabitants have long gone but the magnificent views still remain.
A group of tombs cut into the rock A single tomb of an important person
When we went ashore to visit the tombs we came across two other special places worthy of a mention. The first was a rock painting of an unusual design near the landing place. The other will be of great interest to anyone of an engineering background. These remote areas aren't connected to the electricity grid and must therefore generate their own power. We came across one of these remote electricity generating stations and thought we would like to share it with you. Stand well back if it's raining and don't touch the switch!
Interesting Rock Painting Power Station Turkish Style
From the hill above the tombs you can look across the bay to Fethiye 12 miles distant, this is where we would be heading next.
Looking across the bay towards Fethiye
As we stated earlier the Gocek Fethiye bay is visited by many thousand of boats every year of every shape and size. Here are just two examples.
Old Classic Yacht Very Large Noddy Yacht
Fethiye is the second largest town in the Marmaris Region and the availability of many things including boat parts are therefore greatly increased. We have been struggling with our domestic battery bank (4 x 100 amp/hr batteries) not holding their charge. The batteries are now five years old and have deteriorated badly in the last year, so much so they will hardly hold their charge for more than 24 hours. So we decided to look for some new ones while in Fethiye. I had been doing a little research on what type of battery we should replace the existing ones with and came up with the answer, Traction Batteries. I won't go into all the 'whys and wherefores but simply say Traction Batteries are the type fitted to golf carts and other electrically powered vehicles and are recognised as being one of the best types suitable for the domestic bank on boats. On inquiring at a good local chandlery we were advised that this type of battery wasn't available 'off the shelf' but is made to order and the delivery was 30 working days. So we placed our order and then toddled off to spend the next 30 days visiting and revisiting places and friends in the area. The time wasn't all wasted, our new batteries are much larger than the old ones and would therefore need a new battery box, so I set about making this in preparation for their delivery.
One of the new Traction Batteries with a tin of peas sitting beside it to give you a comparision of size
Our new Battery Bank installed in the Engine Room
With the new batteries installed we are now able to utilise more lights and other electrical appliances without having to resort to running the generator which is considered to be anti-social while in an anchorage.
Having completed our work here we had one other pleasant duty before heading further south. Jimmy our very good friend who lives in Amesbury, southern England has a friend Graham who lives in Fethiye and when I was home in the UK in May he asked me if I would deliver a book to him as a 'thank you' for all the help he had given Jimmy whilst he was in Turkey.
Graham getting his book, Fethiye Marina in the background
We spent longer in the Gocek Fethiye area than we had originally intended but we also felt we had achieved a lot and we were now ready to move further south with Kalkan as our next scheduled stop.